Monday, January 25, 2016

Calinawan Cave - Daranak Falls - Tanay Church

Feels good to be on a nature trip, and I hope this blog will help you on yours. It's a new year and a new blog solely for my travels. This here is my first ever DIY Solo Travel to Tanay, Rizal on a day trip. Great way to start the year!

Why was I doing this?
I want to be able to go places without depending on anyone else or on the convenience of a travel and tours group. I want to be able to backpack from tip to tip of the Philippines and ultimately the world. And it starts with having the balls to go out on your own, in unfamiliar territory, alone... which of course I didn't have haha. Hence the trip. Decided on a day trip so that I don't get too freaked out and anxious. Also, I couldn't stay still. I've been still for a while now and my feet have started to itch.

Was it on my bucket list? 
Location, nope. Didn't even know these places were so close to home til I looked around for places to see in Tanay, which I heard had windmills now. But the DIY solo trip, yes it was a bucket list entry in several versions too. A trip, not this particularly, but to take a trip, well I've been bitten long ago by the wander bug and it's effects haven't left, but the trips have been halted for a while.

Why Tanay? 
Why not? It seemed like a safe place to start on my own. Not too expensive, since 1k was the budget. Not too remote; not too far off the town proper and no boat rides. Not too far off; About an hour out of Antipolo, 3 hours from home in Las Piñas.

What was plan?
Ha! Plans really have a way of changing so let me tell you what the planned itinerary was versus what I ended up doing.

So here was the plan:
Sunday, January 24, 2016
0630 ETD Tanay Rizal from Star Mall Shaw Blvd
0830 ETA Tanay Rizal Market/Terminal
0900 Start Tour
0930 Daranak Falls
1130 Batlag Falls
1200 Lunch
1430 Calinawan Cave
1600 Tanay Church
1700 Sunset viewing in Parola
1800 Head back to Manila

The problem with this was the budget. I had estimated about 1,800 on a solo trip and 1,000 if it were a 4pax group (a table at Batlag Falls). I had only 1,000 to spare. At the start of the trip, I already knew that there would be a change in the plan. I was willing to let go of Batlag Falls (which had an entrance fee of P100 on top of the entrance fee in Daranak), any tables and the Parola.

This is what eventually happened:
0800 Left Las Piñas (late even for my own trip demmit)
0900 Crossing/Shaw Blvd bound for Tanay Terminal
1100 Arrival at Tanay
1130 Calinawan Cave
1230 Tricycle to Daranak Falls
1300 Daranak Falls
1445 Tricycle to Tanay Church
1530 Mass
1700 Head back to Manila
1845 Crossing
2000 Home

Calinawan Cave - Daranak Falls - Tanay Church
Bus ride to EDSA


How was it?!

Word of warning: I was slightly frustrated that I couldn't find detailed experience during my research so I will break this down with headings. You can just go past the parts that will be draggy for you as a reader, or if you feel it will take away the fun in the experience.

Trip to Tanay Terminal
Getting there was easy enough. Took the EDSA bus to Star Mall Shaw (note the only restroom there at the time that the mall is closed is at Chowking). The van to Tanay Market/Terminal is located along side EDSA, fare of which is P70. I had expected a long wait time for the van to fill up, but it didn't take more than 10 minutes. Probably because it was a Sunday and there were those heading to Regina. I found out later that "Regina" was Regina Rosarii Institute for Contemplation in Asia (RICA), a 13.5 hectare pilgrimage site with a 71-foot statue of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary. There was hardly any traffic and we passed thru Antipolo. For those who want to stop at Antipolo for a view, you can definitely add it in your itinerary.

Looking for a ride to Calinawan Cave
Once in Tanay, the moment you get down tricycle drivers will approach you asking if you want a ride. I made a deal with a tricycle driver, Kuya Elmer (I kindda freaked out later because I eventually figured he stoned as f***), to take me to Calinawan, Daranak and the church for P400. If I had thrown in Regina if would have been P600. Didn't really want to see the belen so I opted not to go there. If I didn't take the package deal, grabbing a tricycle between places would be more or less P150 a ride or none at all. Walking in the area is long and not exactly safe for a solo female traveler (especially after I realized my driver was stoned). I didn't want to risk not getting a ride so I agreed on the package and off we went. Why did I still go for Kuya Elmer knowing he was high, well I dunno. It just felt like I would be fine.

Trip to Calinawan Cave
The ride to Calinawan Cave was alright at first. I saw at the distance the windmills, which I didn't expect. The driver said we could go there too (at a cost of course). I think you might be able to get away with P500-P600 to include the windmills and Parola if you're good with haggling. Less than half the way, the rough road starts. The roads were not cemented and the houses were not exactly next to each other. There wasn't any power posts so I had assumed there was no electricity in the area. He was right, I hardly saw any tricycles pass by and several people were walking the long route between places, but I didn't see anyone that was alone.

At Calinawan Cave Reception Area
The ride was 30 minutes and once in Calinawan Cave, there is a kubo (nipa hut) as the tour guide reception area. The people there were so accommodating and friendly (and 2 tour guides that were kindda cute LOL). Contrary to what I read online, there is a restroom there that belongs to the nice old lady of the sari-sari store. It can be used for P5 to pay for the rationed water and cleaning. The tour has a mandatory fee of P20 and the Tour Guide is P200. If you want to go further into the cave, just add a few more to the Tour Guide fee (amount of your choice).

Calinawan Cave Reception

Cave entrance


Inside Calinawan Cave
Exit sign of caveThe entrance to the cave is tiny, and dark. Research advised to bring a flash light of your own, and
I'm glad I did. It's pitch black and tiny inside. It's a small cave what was used by Filipinos as a strong hold during the revolution against Spain and I could see why. It was discovered in 1901 and had natural tunnels ranging from 7 feet or so, to a little over 3 feet in height. There was even a passage way only about 2 feet in height, but travelers are not allowed to pass it.

Calinawan Cave TunnelCalinawan Cave Tunnel

There was also a tunnel that they fondly called the Sexy Tunnel, because if you didn't fit, you weren't sexy. I didn't find it funny, and the path wasn't too tight. But anyway, moving on. The first open landing of the cave was also used to film local fantasy TV Shows in the past, which is why there are some glitters pasted on the walls of the cave and rock formations to fake stalactites and stalagmites. It's sad that such an area can be ruined for the sake of money and ratings. There are also vandalism on the walls of the cave around that area. Along the way, there are real stalactites and stalagmites though, but not as much I had hoped for.

Natural rock formationMineral crystals


Stalactite and a stalagmite Stalactite and a stalagmite
Sorry for the black lines towards the bottom. My phone camera has a crack there. 

Bats used to be abundant in the levels that I have been thru, but now that it is a disturbed area, they have moved to other levels. They have left behind deep holes on the ceilings. There were a few I was lucky see though, and a spider as big as my palm resting on crystals.
Spider on crystal
The palm-sized spider

Holed homes of bats
Old homes of bats
Bats in Calinawan Cave
Bats hanging way up in cracks and nooks
Towards the end of the tour it gets pretty with the different rock formations and spacious areas in between tunnels. I liked the echoing sound of your steps as you walk thru the natural tunnels. The exit to the cave has a really pretty high wall and much larger than the entrance.

Natural rock formations in Calinawan CaveExit of Calinawan Cave

Exit of Calinawan Cave

Exit of Calinawan Cave

Calinawan Cave exit

Calinawan Cave

Calinawan Cave exit

Calinawan Cave sign

If I had seen this before I saw Sagada's caves, maybe I would see this cave differently. I agree with some blogs I read that if you are going to see the cave on a trip to Tanay only, it's not worth the effort. Best to see the other parts of Tanay before or after the cave. Also if you bring a child to the trip, it is good for them. It's not a difficult walk inside. Nonetheless, it was great to see stalactites, stalagmites and those that live in the cave. There was still a beauty to it that you bring with you when you leave. Don't touch the stalactites and stalagmites, cause they say it ruins and "kills" it. As they say, "Leave nothing but footprints, take nothing but pictures".

Oh and yes, there was no electricity in the area as confirmed by ate tour guide. So best not to go there too late. The entire walk through the cave at a slow pace (I took so many pictures hehe) was about 45 minutes. If I had gone to the other levels, it may have reach an hour or so. After the tour in the cave, I grabbed my bag (the tour guide had advised to leave it behind in the kubo) and got ready to leave for Daranak Falls.

Going to Daranak Falls
The road was rough until the bottom of the hill that lead to the falls. By this time, I noticed there were multiple groups of motorcycle riders going to and coming from the direction of Daranak Falls. Apparently it was a common venue for cyclists and motorcycle riders since the roads were steep, surrounded by trees and rough. It took about 30 minutes to get to the falls on rough road.

Daranak Falls here I come!Off to Daranak Falls!



Daranak Falls
The place was full. I should have stuck to the plan of going in the morning to avoid the influx of people. Oh well, lesson learned hehe. Locals said it's best to come on weekdays especially Mondays.

Daranak Falls and riders
Kuya Elmer had offered to watch my stuff while I was inside as well since he can go in and out without being paid for. Apparently tricycle drivers who frequently bring in guests can go in for free. I was not comfortable at first and I kept my valuables with me in the water. Later I had no choice (I had accidentally ripped the waterproof pouch I had in the cave, hence water was seeping in the bag). I was glad that he was there to watch my stuff. That is a problem with travelling solo to a place where you can't keep your stuff secured. With the number of people, it would have been hard to leave your stuff around the area. The entrance fee was P50, and children below a certain height can get in free. Police men (at least I think they were, or maybe security of the Barangay?) will check your belongings. Note, alcoholic beverages are not allowing inside. I was happy that despite the number of people, the place was kept clean. The water was green and free of trash. Good job Tanay! It is open until 5PM only.

Welcome to Daranak Falls, Tanay, Rizal

Daranak Falls

Daranak Falls

Daranak FallsIt wasn't too cold and it was deeeep. The rocks were slippery, but it was not sharp (yey!). The falls itself was at the corner by a dead end and beautiful. It wasn't high like Pasanjan Falls, but wider and prettier. There were also some smaller falls in front of the main one, with a shallower bottom where kids could stay. There were also several other shallow areas downstream where most of the children would swim. It was nice to see kids exposed to nature. There were pretty butterflies and insects flying between trees, and it wasn't too hot considering I got there pretty much noon time. There were fences and tables made of bamboo, and only in the shower area will you find cemented tables and benches, floors and steps, which I think was very considerate of the government (the falls is under the care of the government and you get an official receipt of the Municipal upon paying). Up the cliff there is a big building, but I am not sure what's up there and I didn't bother going up.

Daranak Falls

Daranak Falls

Daranak Falls

Daranak Falls

Daranak Falls

After my swim (and selfies LOL), I ate lunch that I brought with me. Then, I decided to go and see the church. Besides, I didn't want to shower close to closing time considering the crowd. The shower area was a not great. There are enclosed showers where you could change with privacy, but the line was so long, I opted for the open showers instead. Either one though has a charge of P5. Changing in the open shower area was a bit awkward. There was no door to the shower area, just a curtain, so anyone sitting in the tables and chairs outside could see anyone changing inside. There was a closed off changing area in the corner, but the water from the showers would build up there, so um no thanks. I managed to change and headed for the sari-sari store/souvenir shop to get myself ciggs (yey, only the 3rd for the day!). Then off to town.

In Tanay Church
Tanay ChurchKuya Elmer explained that there is a sculpture in front of the church, craved from an old chopped tree. He said it took about 4 months and rumors say it cost half a million. It was gorgeous and big! The details were done well. It could be seen once you turn the corner. The church itself was also gorgeous and well kept. Big and spacious with LCD screens for those far from the wide, high walled, statue-filled, flower-lined altar. I was in time for Holy Mass, so I decided to stay. Children did the readings and the choir was good. The priest was interacting with the crowd, which was new to me. He would ask questions and expected an answer. I liked that. I hope the Catholic church is doing that as a standard nowadays. It makes it more personal.

Tanay Church
Front view of the carving
Tanay Church
From the side

Tanay Church
From the back

Tanay Church

Tanay Church

Altar, Tanay Church

Choir in Tanay Church


After mass, I took pictures and headed for the tiangge (bazaar) along the side streets. Stuff there were pretty much common so I decided to head for the terminal. A tricycle would have cost P10 as per Kuya Elmer, but I decided to take a walk. It wasn't that far anyway.

Heading back to Manila
Boarded the van to Star Mall Shaw. The line was long, but the wait was short. Kuya Elmer said the the vans and jeeps are around almost 24 hours, but I'm not so sure since the terminal on the Star Mall Shaw closes after a certain time at night. Same rate of P70 and a I was off to Manila with a smile on my face, confidence and refreshed mind.

How much did it all cost?
Short answer: P999.00 only.
Break down of expenses:
Transpo to Star Mall Shaw = P55
Van to Tanay = P70
Kuya Elmer = P400
Calinawan Cave Entrance = P20
Tour Guide = P200
Daranak Falls Entrance = P50
Snacks and ciggs = P67
Van to Star Mall Shaw = P70
Transpo to Las Piñas = P67

Not bad. If you were to go in a group, you can split the tricycle package price and you would probably be able to see the sunset at the Parola and/or see the new windmills.

Now that I know I have the balls to go out on a DIY trip and alone, I am excited to plan for the next one! :) Til the next story! Sleep well, dream big.

Much love,
Woobie



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